{"id":11863,"date":"2026-01-31T08:46:14","date_gmt":"2026-01-31T11:46:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/radioclanfm.com\/clanespectaculos\/?p=11863"},"modified":"2026-01-31T08:46:14","modified_gmt":"2026-01-31T11:46:14","slug":"los-duros-requisitos-para-pertenecer-al-exclusivo-mundo-de-la-alta-costura-solo-13-marcas-lo-cumplen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/radioclanfm.com\/clanespectaculos\/los-duros-requisitos-para-pertenecer-al-exclusivo-mundo-de-la-alta-costura-solo-13-marcas-lo-cumplen\/","title":{"rendered":"Los duros requisitos para pertenecer al exclusivo mundo de la alta costura: solo 13 marcas lo cumplen"},"content":{"rendered":"
Producci\u00f3n hecha en Francia, un staff de al menos 20 empleados fijos y hacer dos desfiles al a\u00f1o son algunas de las exigencias.<\/p>\n
La\u00a0alta costura\u00a0regres\u00f3 a la capital francesa para cuatro d\u00edas de desfiles,\u00a0una cita exclusivamente parisina que reuni\u00f3 a un reducido grupo de marcas\u00a0<\/b>que cumplen criterios precisos y que crean las piezas que brillar\u00e1n luego en las alfombras rojas.<\/p>\n
<\/div>\n
El t\u00e9rmino \u201calta costura\u201d, utilizado a menudo para designar la moda de lujo, corresponde a un concepto jur\u00eddicamente protegido, que no debe confundirse con el \u201cpr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter\u201d.<\/p>\n\n
<\/picture><\/div>\n
El impactante desfile de Dior en Par\u00eds. (Foto: REUTERS\/Benoit Tessier)<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Las reglas de la alta costura<\/h2>\n
Para obtener esta denominaci\u00f3n, una firma de moda debe cumplir criterios determinados.<\/p>\n
Los modelos deben ser\u00a0originales, realizados a medida y a mano<\/b>\u00a0y concebidos exclusivamente por el director art\u00edstico permanente de la firma, en\u00a0talleres ubicados en Francia.<\/b><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
La marca tiene que disponer de dos talleres distintos: uno de \u201ctailleur\u201d para las prendas estructuradas y arquitect\u00f3nicas, como chaquetas, abrigos o pantalones, y otro de \u201cflou\u201d para las piezas suaves y fluidas como vestidos o blusas.<\/p>\n\n
<\/picture><\/div>\n
El brillo de la alta costura de Georges Hobeika en Par\u00eds. (Foto: REUTERS\/Gonzalo Fuentes)<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
La comisi\u00f3n de control exige, adem\u00e1s, una planta de al menos\u00a020 empleados<\/b>, as\u00ed como\u00a0<\/b>la presentaci\u00f3n de dos desfiles anuales en Par\u00eds, en enero y julio, que incluyan como m\u00ednimo 25 conjuntos, con looks de d\u00eda y de noche.<\/p>\n
Existe, sin embargo, cierta tolerancia para las casas m\u00e1s peque\u00f1as.<\/p>\n
\u201cSi solo tenemos 21 o 22 conjuntos, no vamos a hacer de polic\u00eda\u201d, se\u00f1ala Pascal Morand, presidente ejecutivo de la Federaci\u00f3n de la Alta Costura y Moda (FHCM), que organiza la Semana de la Alta Costura y las \u201cFashion Weeks\u201d parisinas. Tampoco es siempre necesario hacer dos desfiles al a\u00f1o.<\/p>\n\n
<\/picture><\/div>\n
Chanel, otra de las casas m\u00e1s ic\u00f3nicas de la alta costura. (Foto: REUTERS\/Gonzalo Fuentes)<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Un c\u00edrculo selecto: qui\u00e9nes son<\/h2>\n
S\u00f3lo\u00a013 marcas<\/b>\u00a0cuentan con la denominaci\u00f3n de \u201calta costura\u201d, entre ellas los pesos pesados del lujo Dior, Chanel y Givenchy, pero tambi\u00e9n Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, Alexis Mabille, Schiaparelli y Julien Fourni\u00e9.<\/p>\n
La\u00a0categor\u00eda se concede \u00fanicamente por un a\u00f1o y debe renovarse cada temporada.<\/b><\/p>\n
Algunas grandes casas francesas no figuran en la lista, como Saint Laurent y Herm\u00e8s. La primera renunci\u00f3 a la alta costura en 2002, cuando se march\u00f3 Yves Saint Laurent, y la segunda tiene previsto integrarla hacia 2027.<\/p>\n\n
<\/picture><\/div>\n
Giorgio Armani cre\u00f3 Armani Priv\u00e9 para entrar a la alta costura. (Foto: REUTERS\/Sarah Meyssonnier)<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
A estas conocidas firmas se suman siete \u201cmiembros correspondientes\u201d, con una actividad que pertenece a la alta costura, pero no tienen su sede en Par\u00eds, como las casas italianas\u00a0Armani y Valentino<\/b>, el liban\u00e9s Elie Saab y el d\u00fao neerland\u00e9s Viktor & Rolf.<\/p>\n
La FHCM tambi\u00e9n invita cada temporada a algunos creadores a desfilar. Entre otros, el sirio\u00a0Rami Al Ali<\/b>, la francesa Julie de Libran, el suizo Kevin Germanier y la surcoreana Miss Sohee figuran entre las 28 firmas que participan en esta edici\u00f3n.<\/p>\n
Historia de la alta costura<\/h2>\n
La alta costura precedi\u00f3 al pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter, que propone una moda industrial y producida en mayor cantidad.<\/p>\n
Este estilo, surgido en Par\u00eds a finales del siglo XIX con figuras como\u00a0Charles Frederick Worth<\/b>, Jeanne Paquin y Paul Poiret, est\u00e1 protegido y\u00a0regulado jur\u00eddicamente desde 1945\u00a0<\/b>por el Ministerio franc\u00e9s de Industria.<\/p>\n\n
<\/picture><\/div>\n
Las famosas, infaltables en los desfiles de alta costura. (Foto: REUTERS\/Gonzalo Fuentes)<\/div>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\u201cLa alta costura puede parecer un poco anticuada\u201d, reconoce Morand, pero es un \u201claboratorio\u201d de creatividad. \u201cEs un s\u00edmbolo de la identidad francesa\u201d, asegura.<\/p>\n
En diciembre,\u00a0pas\u00f3 a formar parte del patrimonio inmaterial franc\u00e9s<\/b>, primer paso antes de presentar su candidatura al patrimonio de la Unesco.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Producci\u00f3n hecha en Francia, un staff de al menos 20 empleados fijos y hacer dos desfiles al a\u00f1o son algunas de las exigencias. La\u00a0alta costura\u00a0regres\u00f3 a la capital francesa para cuatro d\u00edas de desfiles,\u00a0una cita exclusivamente parisina que reuni\u00f3 a un reducido grupo de marcas\u00a0que cumplen criterios precisos y que crean las piezas que brillar\u00e1n […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11866,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"rop_custom_images_group":[],"rop_custom_messages_group":[],"rop_publish_now":"initial","rop_publish_now_accounts":[],"rop_publish_now_history":[],"rop_publish_now_status":"pending","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-11863","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-moda"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\n
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